In the light of Parker giving a record 18
perfect 100 point scores to the 2009 Bordeaux wines and the subsequent price
hike that has ensued. I thought that it would be a good time to look at
Bordeaux’s neighbors.
If you follow the Dordogne river inland you
pass directly from Bordeaux into the rolling Bergerac countryside.
http://www.dordognevalley.com/area.html |
As might be expected the wines are
stylistically similar with Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle being grown
for whites, and the Bordeaux quadrilogy predominant for the reds. Those that
like their ampelographic trivia will be pleased to know that merille and
perigord can also be found (though to my knowledge I’ve yet to taste them).
There are both sweet wines from Saussignac
and the once coveted Monbazillac, and reds, but I was only looking at dry
whites and pinks.
In Australia they have coined the
delightful neologism that is the Savalanche, the avalanche or tidal wave of
cheapish fresh Kiwi Sauvignon, against which their domestic producers cannot compete
in the fresh summer drinking market. Well Bergerac can, this (along with the
Cote de Duras) is prime fresh summer Sauvignon territory. The wines are nicely
priced and personally I’m always a bit surprised that we don’t see more of them
in the UK market, given our established predilection for all things Sauvignon.
The standard blend is mostly Sauvignon
Blanc with smidgens of Semillon and Muscadelle to add body and aromatics. This
works well, the Muscadelle more often than not adding a delicate white flower
or mandarin like note to the wines.
Chateau Roque Peyre, a smallish family
owned estate seemed to me to demonstrate exactly what Bergerac Blanc was
offering, their cuvee Subtilite being 90% Sauvignon with the rest being
Semillon and Muscadelle, temperature controlled steel tank fermentation with a
preferment skin maceration had delivered a delightfully aromatic nosewith ripe
stone and tropical fruits on the palette some vibrant acidity and just a touch
of apple skin on the finish. All this for €4.80ish.
Most producers make a rose, though there
has been a slight chance in style over the years, with people complaining that
domestically people either want something slightly sweet, or the salmon pinkish
herbal tinged hues of their Provencale competitors.
Chateau de la Jaubertie approach the issue
with two cuvees, a fruity blend, resplendent with strawberry and raspberry like
notes that called for mot much more than some friends, sunshine and a corner of
a park (I might stoop to glasses too).
Their Mirabelle rose de Chateau de la
Jaubertie was somewhat more interesting, 100% Merlot fermented in barrique and
spending 6 months on lees. This was closer in colour to a Clairette, and was
much more restrained in the fruit department, making up for this with a fuller
and more appealing mouth feel and certain seriousness of purpose, herby cold
roast lamb with a well dressed salad perhaps, definitely a rose for the table
though.
Stepping up in the seriousness stakes
brought the more age worthy whites.
Hence Montravel:
The first sub region reached as one
ventures inland on the right bank, to put it in a geographic context this abuts
the edge of the Cotes de Castillon, a name which should make English wine
lovers misty eyed in reverie of what could have been, for it was there in 1451
that John of Talbot lost the final and decisive battle in the hundred years
war, casting the Bordelais into the purgatory that was being French (and look
how badly they’ve suffered since). However I digress.
Montravel is an appellation for classy
whites, legally Semillon must make a minimum of 25% of the blend and it’s for
this that producers tend to label their crisp, fruity, aromatic and Sauvignon
dominated cuvees as Bergerac Blanc while retaining the Montravel appellation
for their more serious barrique aged cuvee. It’s said that there is a more
mineral nervosity to the wines of Montravel in comparison to Bergerac, but this
was hard to see given the way that most of the Bergerac Blancs I tasted were
clearly designed to highlight Sauvignon aromatics, so a comparison would have
been slightly unfair.
Chateau du Bloy, Le Bloy, Montravel Sec 09
fitted this mold neatly, a healthy 20% of Semillon (yes I know that legally
there needs to be 25%, so either my reference book is out of date, or it’s the
common issue in France where no one pays a blind bit of notice to the letters
of the law) and barrique ageing. This was all citrus oils and minerals, a
slightly salty finish and that wet stone patina of bottle age.
I like Bergerac wines a lot, they fit
neatly into a price quality ratio that I’m happy with, obviously there are outliers in the region,
Chateau Tour des Gendres immediately springs to mind, but I’ll cover them in
more detail along with the intriguing Chateau Masburels Montravel later.
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