Dilemma (not featuring Nelly or Kelly)

Recently I found myself tasting a little wine called Domaine de Cabrials, it was a light extremely juicy little red from the south of France (09 pays d'oc). Not particularly concentrated, with ripe jammy raspberry fruit flavours. At £5 ex vat it is a very appealing little wine, even more so as I'm constantly being berated over my lack of 'bistro' wines.... however I have a slight problem with the wine, it's a Pinot Noir, and it loudly declaims this on its stylish label. Now Pinot Noir for me carries a certain expectation, there is a type of fruit character that I want to see, whether it's fresh cherries, strawberries and mouth watering acidity from an Irancy, or richly textured dark fruits from a top Central Otago there's a certain something that it ought to deliver. That's my problem, the Dom de Cabrials just doesn't have anything that really makes me think Pinot Noir, don't get me wrong it's nice for the price and I'd happily drink it, but I just wish it didn't say Pinot Noir on the label, maybe Dom de Cabrials, Red wine of an unspecified Vitis Vinifera varietal that you may have heard of..... thought I concede that's a mite long winded.